BIGger, or SMALLer.
Smaller is easier , but BIG makes a
statement small can't. You choose!
Weight is a big factor in designing your
gun, and knowing what different barrel characteristics require
is important.
A heavy barrel pack must be supported
VERY solidly. Once spinning, ten times so. Not only does it
have to not tear the axle out in normal operation, any sudden
stops MUST be absorbed into the main structure of your
assembly. From a cosmetic viewpoint, the barrel must not sag
or wave when it's moved about. It should appear as a rigid
assembly to viewers/handlers.
Be absolutely sure to
read the
"Mounts"
page before deciding fully on
how YOU will make your barrel.
Heavier barrel packs need drastically
different gun structures.
Our Big Minigun Pattern MUST have a STEEL
MAIN AXLE, and a suitable mounting structure for SAFETY, and
GOOD LOOKS. For this reason, please lean toward the "FREE
Minigun" Patterns I offer here for experimentation, or the
Small Minigun Pattern set for your first build.
SIMPLE BARREL
DESIGN:
CLICK PICTURE FOR HOW THESE ARE
MADE
This is a "HoneyComb" pack.
This is a simple arrangement of six equal-diameter tubes
bonded around a seventh, equal-diameter tube. This works with
any given tubing size- from the tiniest to the biggest. Bees
use this same geometrical layout for their honecombs, because
six circles of any given size will always fit perfectly around
a seventh. The PPR-40MW has a honecomb barrel pack.
It is literally only seven parts. This is the strongest way to
make a barrel pack, but you are limited to having 3 or 6
barrels. Advantages include simple assembly and alignment
without fixturing, and super light weight. This is the type of
barrel a new builder will find easiest to assemble. This
barrel pack type is more finger-friendly, having no gaps
between the tubes*.
COMPLEX BARREL DESIGN:
The second way to make a minigun barrel
is a built-up pack.
This is a set of similar cross-drilled
plates with holes arranged about their perimeter to fix
the barrels in place. Much more complex in assembly, they have
the advantage of being able to hold any number of
barrels.
CLICK PICTURE FOR HOW THESE ARE
MADE
The 1-Man Carry gun has a built-up pack.
Not counting hardware or bearing parts, it is 22 components. A
lot more work is involved, and alignment is not easy to
achieve. Note that this one has a rubber flex joint about
mid-length of the barrels to allow adjustment. Disadvantages
include more weight, and a reliance on tight tolerances for a
solid structure. This type of barrel is more suited to an
experienced fabricator.
NOTES:
Low mass is a consideration when
making a barrel pack- the higher it is, the more drive motor
(weight) it will require.
*The diameter of your
pack is also important: smaller is easier to drive, and is
safer. You do not need to drive a barrel at high RPM to have
an acceptable illusion. All you really need is fast enough to
fool the eye or camera. Sound effects will complete the
"sell". A barrel pack is a potential rotation hazard-
be sure to read my warnings page , especially noting that
the drive system HAS to slip if the barrels meet ANY
obstruction.
I've made these big
and small!
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